What I Drank Last Night – A sumptuous Alsatian Riesling, the Vielles Vignes 2010 from Domaine Ehrhart. A luscious fruitiness combines with bright acidity and the focused concentration of old vines for a mind-blowing wine at an everyday price.

What I Drank Last Night – The best martinis in NY, or at least the most generous.

At the Bemelman’s Bar, the venerable Upper East Side institution at the Carlyle Hotel, martinis are effectively two-for-one – the second half comes in a mini-carafe nestled in a larger glass of crushed ice so your next see-through is ready and waiting, fresh, chilled and undiluted just when you need it. Such thoughtfulness when it comes the supply of martinis is not unappreciated by the neighborhood’s WASP regulars.

What I Drank Last Night – the best American fizz I’ve ever tasted, the fabulous J. Schram 1999 from Schramsberg. Perfectly aged, the bright Chardonnay citrus and green apple flavors are beautifully integrated into the Pinot red-fruit elements, the fine, yeasty hints of brioche and hazelnuts for a mellow, deep and perfectly harmonious fizz.

Tasted through Bollinger’s four current cuvees – the Special Cuvée NV, Rose NV, the Grand Année 2002 and the Grand Année Rosé 2002 – with Jerome Philipon, the company’s President, and they were all impeccable, the crème of Champagne from this stylish house. The Special Cuvée had a wonderful musty, yeasty nose, quite closed at first but kept growing and growing in the glass – huge potential. The Rosé was one year older, rich and better integrated, seductive hints of rose petals and again was far better after half an hour.

At first I was disappointed with the La Grand Année 2002 but as it opened up it began to reveal its huge potential. This will be a magnificent wine. The Rosé 2002 was delicate and charming, not a hint of that ponderous weight often encountered in rosé fizz, and a richness will make it a great food Champagne. Another wine with a glorious future.

Bravo Bollinger!

Enjoying the bounty of Bolly

What I Drank Last Night – Thierry Redde’s astounding Majorum Pouilly-Fumé 2005 from his family’s estate, Michel Redde et Fils, in the Loire.

Made only in good vintages, this is one of those Ahh-moment wines, wines about which I let out a deep sigh and go “Yes, this is what wine’s all about!”

Eighty year old vines produce yields at half the normal level but bring forth a wine of such glorious, passionate intensity I can’t contemplate drinking anything else after it.

What I Drank Last Night – A superb 2003 Shafer Merlot, succulent, rich and pungent, no wimpy California Merlot here. The 6 or so years in the bottle had rounded it out beautifully without in any way sapping it’s dynamic vigor. Why can’t more California Merlots be like this?

Cliff Lede’s smooth, round and polished 2001 Stag’s Leap Cab, at Matisse, an unpretentious mid-town New York boîte serving authentic French bistro favorites like Blanquette de Veau and Poulet de Grand Mere, both of which were fabulous, and perfect with the Cab. Most accommodating BYOB policy too.

What I Drank Last Night – With Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, a brand new champagne conceived by the three winemaking branches of the Rothschild family. Named, appropriately, Champagne Barons de Rothschild, the three cuvées, Brut, Blanc de Blanc & Rosé, are all non-vintage:  My favorite for current drinking is the Brut, beautifully balanced, rich, nutty, almost aromatic, supremely full-flavored for a NV champagne. The other two will be super after a little more time in the bottle. Coming shortly a full report in a Nick’s Wine Of The Week column and Nick’s WineCast.

Sharing a glass of his very superior fizz with Philippe Sereys de Rothschild

What I Drank Last Night – With Piero and Alessia Antinori, and winemaker extraordinaire, Renzo Cotarella, a fascinating new wine from their Guado Al Tasso estate in Bolgheri, Matarocchio 2007, 100% Cab Franc. Rich, spicy, pungent, definitely a warm-climate CF. It took three hours to open up but when it did was opulent and compelling. At the moment just a fun experiment, only 250 cases were produced, but if they can make it successfully in a majority of vintages it could become available in commercial quantities.

Alessia Antinori & Renzo Cotarella