There is an interesting experiment ongoing among thoughtful French wine producers these days that attracts very little attention but which affects, and will affect, all consumers of quality wine. It concerns just how much will be sacrificed in terms of ageability, and the marvelous depths and complexity that appear in long-aged wine, in making wine that can be drunk with pleasure the day it’s bought.

Today’s consumers wants a wine, a quality wine, they can buy on the way home from work and drink that evening. But traditionally good wine takes years to reach maturity so increasingly producers are crafting wines that are accessible when young.

But how much is lost in this increasing accessibility? More optimistic producers claim none while the more thoughtful adopt a wait-and-see attitude.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a region that has undergone a marked transformation over he last couple of decades but its red wines still require at least five years to show their true colors. Or at least that’s what I thought till I tried this week’s Five Star Nick’s Wine of the Week, the Domaine Font de Michelle 2007, Cuvée Etienne Gonnet, Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($70)

Soft, juicy and accessible this is a gorgeous wine to drink today. It has tangy red berry flavors – I picked up strawberries and cherries – backed up by subtle smoky undercurrents of pepper and licorice.

It has all the sun-splashed passion one expects in a Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a delightfully quaffable, ready-to-drink package.

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To find this wine near you try www.wine-searcher.com.

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