Randall Graham, proprietor of Bonny Doon Vineyards in Santa Cruz, CA, only makes Viognier as a sideline, but his Bonny Doon Viognier 2009 ($20) is the best version from outside the Rhône I have ever tasted. So last week I snagged him during a brief visit to NYC, and sat down in a noisy bar to quiz him about this unusual wine.

He began experimenting with Rhône varietals in the early 1980’s, a time when winemakers in California had barely heard of the region, yet alone its then obscure varietals, especially Viognier. So my obvious first question was “why?”

“Because I failed miserably in making Pinot Noir. Pinot just seemed too difficult to do well. The reason I was attracted to Rhône varieties was because I thought I could do something that no one else is doing, find a niche, and produce something that might be very interesting.”

What impresses me about this wine, apart from the wacky label, was that while much Viognier has a tendency to be a blowsy, showy and perfumed – not to mention boring – the Bonny Doon is very different. It has an elegance, a leanness that sets it apart.

Randall Grahm

“The vineyard is on a steep, north-facing slope so it’s a longer growing season. It’s a cooler area of Pasos Robles. And we keep the yields very low, and it produces fabulous wine every year.” In addition the wine has “Maybe more of a mineral aspect, maybe higher acidity, more density of flavor.”

It also shows less of that air-freshener quality that mares so many domestic Viogniers. “Perfume is great” Grahm explains, “but at a certain point it’s kinda fatiguing to the senses.” And also makes the wine difficult to pair with food.

Interestingly, his primary motive for growing Viognier is for use as a blending wine with Syrah. This was the common practice in the northern Rhône when a little Viognier would lighten and invigorate the dense Syrah, but it’s largely been abandoned now so I am surprised to learn that Grahm is a exponent of the practice.

“It adds more complexity, more fragrance. It makes a more complex wine.” Is his explanation, and it also explains why bottling Viognier as a single varietal is not a major part of his business. Unfortunately.

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