Two bottles of Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes 2007, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Both excellent, and hugely enjoyable with the delicious ossobuco, even if a little young, a little unformed. What was interesting though was the bottle variation – one was softer and more accessible now, whereas the second, while more angular at the moment had the firmer structure and will be the greater wine in 10 years. So much for ratings.





