Santorini is one of those achingly beautiful groups of Greek islands set in a cobalt sea under an azure sky one sees featured in Greek tourism literature.

Winemaking on the islands goes back 5,000 years but the pivotal event in the archipelago’s history was a giant volcanic eruption in about 1600 BC. The main island of Thira and its half dozen smaller sisters are the tips of the giant caldera formed by that cataclysmic eruption.

This geological history is of more than passing interest to wine lovers though because the island’s soil is now made up predominantly of volcanic debris from the giant explosion, and it is this soil that gives the island’s famous white wine its distinct mineral quality.

The native grape, Assyrtiko, is also unusual in that, unlike other white varietals, it is capable of retaining a high level of acidity despite the bright Mediterranean sun. When you combine this acidity with the gravely minerality from the volcanic soil the wine can achieve a remarkable degree of charm and elegance.

A fine example is the Five Star Nick’s Wine of the Week, the Estate Argyros, Santorini 2009 ($20), and it is an utter delight. Full and rounder, with a bigger mouth-feel than other Santorini bottlings, it is a charming, sun-soaked wine touched with the islands’ gravely volcanic minerality while conjuring suggestions of honey and lemon infused with Mediterranean herbs.

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