One of the most remarkable changes in the French wine world over the last decade or so has been the spectacular improvement in the quality of wines from the Rhône Valley. The northern Rhône has always had it’s stars, with Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie commanding prices that reflect this elevated status. But with the exception of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the southern, Mediterranean, part of the appellation has historically been known for what I call peasant wines, not the sort of stuff that appeals to the sophisticated palate of New York wine lovers, nor buyers from British supermarkets either.

The trouble is there really aren’t any peasants anymore, but that’s all right because the winemakers are changing too – there is a whole new generation of educated, ambitious men and women who, spurred on by the support of the regions promotional arm, are in the process of executing a dramatic U-turn away from quantity and towards quality.

The trick here is to make wines that appeal to the contemporary international market while at the same time preserving the regions unique viniferous personality. That this can be done is clearly demonstrated by the latest Five Star Nick’s Wine of the Week, the Vinsobres, Domaine du Coriancon 2007, a veritable bargain at $18.

Pungent and rustic, redolent of the forest in autumn, it’s the sort of wine to drink with a rich venison stew on a cold winter’s evening or, even better, beside a large open fireplace with a wild boar roasting over the glowing embers of old vines.

Packed with the flavors of blackberries, over-ripe plums and dark chocolate, it’s a stick-to-your-ribs sort of wine, a wine that offers the best of both worlds – the authenticity of ancient Provence enhanced by the best contemporary winemaking practices. According to the wine’s US importer, VOS Selections, owner and fourth generation winemaker Francois Vallot “uses modernity in the service of tradition”. It’s a combination that benefits him, the Rhône region, and the world’s wine drinkers equally well.

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To find this wine near you:  www.wine-searcher.com

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