There is no person more important to the creation of the modern Californian, read American, wine industry than Robert Mondavi. He died in 2008 after an eventful life full of triumph, awards and acclaim but also marred by setback and disappointments. Eventually the company that bears his name was sold, after many tribulations, to the large conglomerate Constellation Brands in 2005.

However, Mondavi’s widow, the dynamic and irrepressible Margrit Mondavi, a woman in her 80’s, is still involved in the winery. Although her title is Vice President of Cultural Affairs she also serves as ambassador for the famous brand. It was in this role that she charmed, informed and entertained a group of diners in New York a few months ago as we tasted a range of the company’s wines.

The stand-out wine of the evening was a rare and special treat, the Five Star Nick’s Wine of the Week, the Robert Mondavi I Block 2007 Fumé Blanc ($75), and it is a stunner – without a doubt the best new world sauvignon blanc I have ever tasted.

Magrit Mondavi & N.P.

[A word of explanation here. Fumé blanc and sauvignon blanc are interchangeable names for the same varietal. The former was invented by Mondavi in the 1960’s to circumvent the negative image the latter suffered under at that time.]

The secret here is that it comes from 45-year-old vines in the famous To Kalon vineyard. The age and the terroir, combined with sur lie aging, result in a wine not only of refined elegance, but also a subtle yet intensely focused minerality. This is a rare and special sauvignon blanc.

+++++++

Please note the wine is only available from the winery and at their website:

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