“Rather than having on the back label this warning saying pregnant women should not do this, we should be allowed to say, ‘Wine has this magic ability to make people happy and bring people together.’”

This is just one of the many observations the irrepressible Etienne Hugel shared with me over a recent lunch in New York. Others touched on subjects as diverse as blogging, the French male’s penchant for taking a mistress, and the popularity of Alsatian wines in Japan.

However, Etienne’s exuberance is not limited to the arcane matter of back labels – it extends to every aspect of his family’s successful wine business. The Hugels have been making wine in Riquewihr, Alsace, since 1639, and this longevity gives them a huge reservoir of institutional knowledge. They know which varietals to plant where, which vineyards do better in a hot summer, which in a damp September.

Etienne Hugel

When you combine this storehouse of experience with an unswerving commitment to quality, you begin to understand their success. Yes, everybody talks about quality, but the Hugels actually practice it. In 2006, for instance, their whole production was either declassified or sold off as bulk wine because they were dissatisfied with its quality.

These attributes are particularly useful when it comes to the tricky business of blending different varietals. Most Alsace wine is sold as a single varietal – riesling, pinot gris etc., but a small amount, known as edelzwicker, is a blend, and Hugel’s version is a delight.

Their Gentil 2008 ($17), this week’s Five Star Nick’s Wine of the Week, is pure, fruit-filled enchantment. It’s a quaffable combination of bright, sparkly fruit, ripe melons and peaches, crisp citrus flavors, floral notes and even a touch of slatey minerality. It’s a real crowd pleaser, and the perfect wine for a summer soirée — it will, after all, bring people together and make them happy.

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