Belinda Chang

Modern Alsatian Magic

Since it’s opening five years ago the New York restaurant The Modern has drawn a devoted following of savvy diners thanks, in part, to its Alsatian-themed menu, especially in the more informal Bar Room, and the  accompanying list of superb wines from that region.

Originally conceived by sommelier Stephane Colling, himself from Alsace, the tradition has been maintained by his successor, Belinda Chang who recently introduced me to their own Alsatian-inspired custom cuvée from Australia, a house wine put together for them by Dan Philips of importer The Grateful Palate, and winemaker Bill Downie.

Somewhat strangely the wine bears the name Marquis Philips but is shown on the list as “Modern Edelzwicker”, a term for a blend of various Alsatian varietals, in this case Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. It is worth persevering through this fog of confusion though as it is a super wine and, at $10 a glass, a real winner and the perfect accompaniment for their scrummy tarte flambé.