A couple of weeks ago this column featured NavaReal, a charming and inexpensive white from Spain. This was the first in an occasional series light whites for easy summer drinking, and the theme continues today with an offering from that all too often overlooked wine region, Germany.

When I was growing up in England the light, fresh whites from the valley of the Mosel river were highly fashionable, as in fact, were many German wines. Fashions change though and these days riesling, the predominant grape of the area, faces an uphill battle. The venerable firm of S.A. Prüm has taken care of at least two of the problems confronting the region in an attempt to make its wine more accessible to the American consumer. With its entry level Essence Riesling 2009 ($12) it has done away with the gothic German label with its confusing medieval script and instead chosen one boasting a modern, international design.

Then it has eliminated the traditional but confusing practice of varying the sweetness of the wine from vintage to vintage, a practice that has always struck me as not the ideal strategy for building brand loyalty. Essence is without a doubt a dry wine. Every year.

On the other hand Prüm have retained one of the great advantages of German wines, their low level of alcohol. At only 10.5% it is the perfect wine for a summer’s lunch – leaving you fresh enough for a couple of sets of tennis that afternoon – as a cocktail aperitif on a steamy summer evening, and as an accompaniment to food. Charcuterie definitely, oysters, shrimp, clams and especially scallops, provided they aren’t in too rich a sauce, and milder cheeses.

The explosive fruit on the front of the palate gives a strong impression of sweetness but this is deceptive, and it disappears as the wine slips down, the bracingly acidity asserting itself for a bright, crisp finish.

Essence is redolent of ripe peaches and pears which, combined with riesling’s wonderful aromatic minerality results in a pure and inexpensive summer delight.