Despite taking its knocks in recent years Bordeaux is still the world’s most important fine region, even if its claim on the title isn’t as indisputable as it once was. So for this reason I put aside my dislike of walk-around tastings and braved the crowds at the recent Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux showcase of the 2007 vintage held in a Manhattan ballroom.

2007 was not a great year but the more conscientious properties were able to make some lovely wine. As Paul Wagner, a spokesman for the UGC, points out “The 2007 vintage produced some really tasty wines–perhaps not so many in the very serious vin de garde style, but really delicious and drinkable. For the chateaux who understood this, and there are quite a few, the result is delicious wine that really tastes like good Bordeaux, and is drinkable almost immediately.”

One such property is Chateau Canon ($60) in St-Emillion. Bought in 1996 by the Wertheimer family who also own Chanel, among many other interests, and they have invested some of their considerable fortune since then in renovating and modernizing the vineyards and winery. This, combined with the direction of the estimable General Manager, John Kolasa, is now paying substantial dividends in the form of some superb wines.

Kolasa also manages Chateau Rauzan-Segla for the Wertheimers, and his wines all show a classy, polished elegance marked most of all by balance and harmony, with none of the pumped-up artificial muscularity that is so popular in certain winemaking circles these days.

And the Canon 2007 is another Kolasa winner. It shows beguiling hints of earthiness, think wet leaves and old leather, and the polished feminine delicacy that one finds in the best, merlot-based, St-Émilions. Not a great wine, or a vin de garde, but one that will make for superb, and highly enjoyable, drinking over the next five years or so, and as such is a great example of how a well-run property can make very pleasurable wine in even a so-so vintage.

To find this wine near you try www.wine-searcher.com