2/23/10. Great dinner and vertical with Randall Grahm last night to mark the 25th anniversary of his flagship Le Cigare Volant, a Rhone-style blend from Santa Cruz. It was held at Hearth, in NYC, and the food and service was immaculate – the latter being an especially noteworthy feat given the hundreds of glasses being poured. The wine all came from magnums or even bigger bottles and confirmed that size really does matter, the older vintages from the 1980’s holding up spectacularly well and showing amazing freshness and acidity. As Grahm enthused “Large bottles are beautiful, large bottles are extraordinary!” A memorable evening indeed.






