Clicking with Clicquot

For many guys, Saint Valentine’s Day presents a minefield of potential romantic disaster – plenty of relationships have floundered as a result of the male party in question failing to deliver the largesse in sufficient style and quantity to satisfy the female party’s expectations. But then there’s always Champagne.

Champagne, with its celebratory effervescence and general air of luxury seems tailor-made for this most tricky of dates. And if you then deliver the coup de romance by making that Champagne a rosé, most guys would assume that they have surmounted this obstacle in girlfriend-pleasing style.

But not so fast. If your sweet has more exotic tastes than are satisfied by an inexpensive bottle of prosecco – and I know many who fall into this category – and if you think your life over the next few weeks might be a little less stressful if you dug a bit deeper into your pocket, then I have the perfect upgrade for you.

I recently had the pleasure of dining with Cyril Brun, chief winemaker for Veuve Clicquot, and among other cuvées he produced something really rather special – the Veuve Clicquot Rare Vintage Rosé 1985 ($120).

The perfect Valentines Day couple.

The perfect Valentines Day couple.

And, no, that’s not a typo, the fizz really is 25 years old, and just goes to show what wonderful alchemy can happen to fine Champagne with the passing of not just years but decades.

An extremely cold winter in 1985 – 25% of the vines died – combined with a heat wave in July to produce small quantities of super-concentrated, intensely flavored wine. A full 20 years maturing sur lie before being disgorged in 2005 added yet more complexity. Finally, five years resting in the bottle allowed all these amazing elements to merge into a harmony of astounding richness and complexity.

Time has turned the bright pink of normal rosé to pale copper. And the flavor? It simply astounds: soft and round, with absolutely no sharp edges, a complex melody of mushroomy, earthy elements combined with that well-toasted-bread character that Champagne acquires with time. These all worked magically with the mushroom and truffle risotto it was served with, the rich fecundity of the food and the wine playing off each other in a pas de deux of gastronomic delight.

So if your valentine’s expectations run a bit richer than a box of chocolates and a bunch of roses, or you simply fancy a spot of pure Champagne indulgence yourself, the Veuve Clicquot Rare 1985 is the ideal fizz.

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To find the Rare Veuve Clicquot near you try www.wine-searcher.com.

NWOW Rating:
A five star wine!
When to Drink: Now
Breathing/Decanting: Not necessary.
Food Pairing: Mushroom & truffle risotto -or poultry, rich, creamy sauces and certain cheeses like gruyere and camembert.
Grapes: 49% pinot noir, 14.5% pinot meunier, 36.5 % chardonnay
Appellation: Champagne
Region: Champagne
Country: France
Price: $120
Availability: Limited
Web Site:
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3 Responses to “Clicking with Clicquot”

  1. Mark Haley says:

    Hi Nick,
    Duncan and Susan’s friend here…. I am enjoying your writing very much. Witty and clever. Thank you for adding me to the email list.
    This one on the widow’s ’85 Rose reminded me that I have a Krug millesime ’85 in my cellar…. but then I also have some K ’79′s and ’76′s.
    One day, whilst visiting WA vintners to taste their rather pedestrian New World, Parker-sycophantic offerings, you need to let us know you are in the area and we can have you down to Tacoma for a meal and a bottle… of something worth quaffing (just to remind us all what the stuff should REALLY taste like.)

    LOL, Mark (and Nancy) Haley

  2. Penelope says:

    Can I come, too?

  3. Stuart Aarons says:

    As confirmed to me by my father, long since gone, this is an excellent reminder of what serious Champagne can and should be allowed to become when given some time and not just the Rose wines by any means…
    PS Does that Tacoma offer allow for other interlopers?!

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