There’s a huge snow storm coming into New York, the news is filled with stories of travel chaos and the white stuff’s already piling up in the street under my window.
So I decided to finish my dinner with an apple.
But not just an apple. An apple accompanied by the best Stilton cheese available in America, Colston Bassett, and a glass, or three, of Dow’s 10 Year Tawny Port ($30), the perfect end to a meal on a cold and nasty night.
The port business is going through hard times these days because its flagship product, vintage port, is expensive and takes many years to mature. It is bottled young and requires decades of careful storage before it reveals it’s true magic, so in this intemperate, instant access age that’s not a formula for commercial success.
But if you want to gain an appreciation of how magnificent this wine can be, there’s a very agreeable shortcut – tawny port. This is port aged not in the bottle but in barrels for the specified number of years, usually 10, 20 or 30 and then bottled ready to drink. No waiting till you are worrying about your grandchildren’s education, no messing about with decanters – just pull the cork, pour a small glass and savor the wonder of this delicious liqueur.
Port vineyards line the Douro River.
It is superb with Stilton and other blue cheeses, and works its magic with the sort of rich dessert such as fruit pies and even chocolate that are a challenge to lesser wines. But it really shines with old-fashioned Victorian Christmas concoctions made with dried fruits like Christmas pudding, mince pies and fruit cake.
The Dow’s 10 Year Tawny is a beguiling, bright ruby color tinged with amber, hence tawny. It doesn’t have vintage port’s explosive fresh fruit flavors but its glorious sweet creamy richness is perfectly balanced by a tart crispness of the original wine that prevents it from being cloying. But what makes it special is the unique flavors of candied oranges, roasted hazelnuts and dried apricots that become apparent on the long, lingering finish.
To find a wine of this enticing depth and mystery at this price is astounding, and well shows the advantages that accrue to the adventurous aficionado who’s prepared to step off the well-trodden path of viniferous fashion by trying a bottle of this most Dickensian of Christmas cheer.
If you have not, try it!
For those trying to get acquainted with Port and not (yet) up for jumping into the more expensive vintage territory, there is another reasonably priced point of entry: Late Bottled Vintage Port.
It is offered by most of the major houses and sells for around $20 a bottle.
In the not too distant past it was often uninspiring if not frankly disappointing, but has seen much improvement in recent years.
(The learned Nick may have a different view on this!)
Unlike vintage port, it does not have to be decanted nor drunk within a day or so of being opened.
Having spent the better part of the afternoon shoveling, I think that a reward is my due. Sadly, I have an apple–and a cheese nearly as good as Stilton–but lack the Port. I will lay in a bottle of the very one you have suggested so when the next Nor’easter hits, I am ready. I will let you know.
You’re so right, Nick. Aged tawny is great with Stilton (with or without the apple).
I’d go a step further than you have, and say aged tawny, 10 year old, or, even better, 20 year old, is a better match for Stilton than vintage port. There’s something about those, creamy, nutty, dried fruit flavours that complement the creamy, salty flavours of Stilton perfectly.
Save the mature vintage port for the walnuts and brazil nuts. Or a young vintage port for raspberry and chocolate torte, maybe.
Great blue cheese demands 10 or 20 year old tawny.
(Unless you’re talking Roquefort and Sauternes, of course!)