Last week and this I am highlighting two wines made from that all too often overlooked grape, pinot gris.
Its original home is Alsace but unlike many European varietals, it seems to do equally well in the new world, as the J Vineyards Pinot Gris ($16) well demonstrates.
One of the reasons I find the varietal so pleasing is the intriguing contradiction it displays – its seemingly feminine elegance balanced by it’s far from obvious but none the less very real strength. Well, both characteristics are on display in both these versions, it’s just that the balance is tipped towards finesse in the Alsatian Albrecht and towards assertiveness in the J version.
It’s fuller in the mouth, a little less elegant but in turn shows an abundance of voluptuous tropical fruit flavors followed by a more robust, mineral-infused finish. When you compare it to so many syrupy, fruit-free California chardonnays at twice the price you realize what tremendous value pinot gris represents.
A word of warning: in their wisdom the powers that be at J decided to change the label of this wine from the 2007 vintage to the 2008. And no, this isn’t a minor tweaking rather the whole look of the bottle is radically different. So, if you go looking for the familiar green bottle with the dramatic yellow J don’t be surprised if you can’t find it – look instead for the more traditional bottle shown here. I know, I know, this might seem like a shoot-yourself-in-the-foot decision, a New Coke moment of let’s-confuse-the-customer re-branding, but all that aside, I urge you to stay with these folks because the wine really is delicious.
I love Pinot Gris, Nick. Why do you think it has been so overlooked here?
I totally agree with Duncan, I find Pinot Gris much more interesting in general than its Italian cousin. I’ve had some delicious ones from Oregon and Washington State but will have to try to find this one. I thought I’d never say this but I miss American wines….
In response to Duncan’s query above:
Interesting question. Perhaps it’s because an American chardonnay won the famous Judgment of Paris competition in 1976, so launching the country’s love affair with that varietal.
Or perhaps because it’s an easy grape to grow, if you’re not too concerned about quality, and when you throw in some oak chips, makes inexpensive wine that appeals to America’s sweet tooth.
Or perhaps it’s because pinot gris hails originally from Alsace where the wines come in funny shaped bottles with Germanic-looking labels, which Americans find off-putting.
N.P.