New Zealand wines first began to attract attention, in Britain, during the 1970’s and 80’s, and then burst into American consciousness in the 1990’s with the emergence of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. For a couple of mad years there it was the sort of cult wine that sommeliers hid under the counter, and produced the odd prized bottle for their most favored customers

Sanity soon returned as while Cloudy Bay is a lovely wine it certainly didn’t warrant that sort of pop star hysteria. However it’s few moments of super star status did serve to awaken American awareness of New Zealand wines in general, and NZ sauvignon blanc in particular.

A flood of imitators soon followed but there was a problem – NZ sauvignon blancs often show strong hints of an acidic gooseberry flavor that quickly became the trademark of the whole genre – worse, in two many cheaply made offerings, it has become the only discernible flavor in otherwise thin, watery wines.

That’s why this week’s Nick’s Wine of the Week, Shepherd’s Ridge Sauvignon Blanc ($14) is such a standout. It’s a finely made NZ sauvignon blanc that equals those at twice the price. It shows delicate, zesty fruit flavors balanced by just a hint of those hallmark herbaceous elements without being overwhelmed by them. Cool fermentation and sur lie aging result in a full, rich, mouth-feel without any oak contact, and wine that’s a pure delight at a very moderate price.