I am constantly amazed at the extraordinarily expensive lengths the large champagne houses go to in order to promote their product. Hugely extravagant parties for the launch of the most dreary new cuveé, and deep-pocketed sponsorship of up-market cultural and sporting events are par for the course in the make-believe world of Champagne.

The trouble is we drink so little of the stuff compared to still wine that we really don’t remember what the different brands taste like. Consequently our purchasing decisions are based as much on image as what’s in the bottle, hence the multi-million dollar marketing campaigns.

So it was with this cynical eye well primed for derisive dismissal that I approached the latest offering from the excellent house of Pommery – four different cuveés, each corresponding to one of the seasons. Just another marketing gimmick, thought I, and boy, was I proved wrong.

Pleasantly wrong. Because the Wintertime edition – in a bottle with a ghastly pink label – is an absolutely delicious Blanc de Noir, an extremely unusual champagne made entirely from dark grapes, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, but no Chardonnay.

Bright gold in color, it has more weight and body than Pommery’straditional light and delicate non-vintage champagne, with a rich toastiness and subtle earthy elements that make it the perfect celebratory holiday fizz during this chilly season. It also boasts the added benefit of working extremely well with rich, festive foods.

So pop the cork on Pommery’s Wintertime bubbly because for once the contents of the bottle more than justify the hype.