Frank Grace, an American businessman long resident in London, never set out to become a winemaker.

What he wanted was a vacation home in Tuscany so when he and his wife stumbled on Il Molino and fell in love with the property with its 1000 year old windmill tower, that was it.

The trouble was the property came with vineyards so, being the entrepreneur he is, he became a winemaker. Initially he made fine, high-end Chianti and Super Tuscan blends, just like every other gentleman winemaker in Tuscany – and just like all those other gentleman winemakers, he quickly discovered that it’s hard to make money making quality wine, even when your wines garners critical acclaim. (For more on this aspect of Grace’s experience see my article for Businessweek.com).

But then some adjacent vineyards became available and he embarked on a different strategy – he devoted the new vineyards to making a second wine, a less expensive, every-day red – Il Volano 2005 – and it’s a real winner, the perfect antidote to all those over extracted, jammy new world reds.

It is, in contrast, a charming, fresh, lively, un-oaked blend of Sangiovese and Merlot that’s an ideal light red for all but the most formal and elaborate dishes. And it’s profitable too, which just goes to show that it’s possible to do well by doing good, even in the wine world.