The syrah grape, or shiraz as the Australian version is known, fascinates me because it always tastes so different depending on where it comes from – you never know what you are going to get when you pull the cork.

In Hermitage and Côte Rôtie in the northern Rhône it can be magnificent, but all to many plebeian Cote du Rhônes are thin, tannic and peppery. And their Australian counterparts are often just fruit bombs, all be it with pepper, or even peppermint, accents.

The typical California versions are frequently disappointing too, just variations on the all too familiar jammy, over-ripe cab and merlot theme. But at Kuleto they’ve got it right as this week’s Nick’s WOW, the Kuleto Estate Syrah 2002 ($35) beautifully demonstrates. High elevations and thin soil lead to low yields and small clusters of intensely flavored grapes, and the final result is a deliciously sensual, an irresistibly seductive, new world syrah. It’s all soft, velvety curves but with an added kick from syrah’s inherent earthiness. This is the ultimate peasant wine made good, and it wears it’s new finery with style and self-confident panache.