If you ever wanted an example of just how misleading, even downright useless, Italian wine labels can be, look no further than this week’s Nick’s Wine of the Week.
It’s made from Sangiovese, the grape variety of Chianti, and it comes from Tuscany, the region of Chianti. Yet because some of the grapes are grown outside the legally designated Chianti boundaries, this excellent Sangiovese 2004 ($12) from the esteemed producer Lionello Marchesi’s Castello di Monastero estate bears only the humble designation DGT Toscana. This despite the fact that it is far superior to many Chiantis and Chianti Classicos at three times the price.
It shows the very real charm Sangiovese is capable of when it’s treated with respect - ripe, but not over-ripe grapes, and limited use of new oak result in a fresh and vivacious quaffer.
Marked by a vigorous fresh-fruit acidity tinged with hints of smokiness and spice, this is a real crowd pleaser, especially given its easy price. Bouncing with vitality it’s the perfect light summer red, ideal for chilling on a hot evening around the grill.
stuart aarons said,
August 24, 2007 at 7:17 pm:
Nick,
At your best, accessible, useful information with an injection of joy!
More please!
Hans Collins said,
August 24, 2007 at 8:36 pm:
Nick,
Thanks for yet another tip on a great wine. Suzanne and I have really enjoyed your wine commentary ever since we met you at Triple Creek Ranch in June of 2004. We have found your wine recommendations correspond well with our palates. Thanks for including us on your emailing list.