We have all been reading about the great promise of South American wines for at least ten years now so I feel it’s about time these well financed and well promoted producers started to deliver.

So get on with it guys. What’s the problem? What’s holding you back?

Because, so far the effort, has been pretty feeble. All too often the forty dollar reds taste like mediocre versions of $14 California wines, and the $14 wines are undrinkable at any price.

OK, OK, as I dodge the brick bats tossed my way by the importers and promoters of all these South American wines, I do acknowledge that there are a few good ones amongst all the over-priced dross – just enough, in fact, to keep me trying them because, every now and again I come across a real gem, and this week’s WOW, the Arboleda Merlot 2003, is one of them. And a super find, especially at the very reasonable price of $15, it is too.

Real structure in an inexpensive New World Merlot is rare, but this wine has it. This is no wimped-out California-merlot-cola, but one with a nice freshening acidity and soft but robust tannins too provide decent backbone. There are hints of spice and wet earth on the nose but it’s all fresh blackberries and cherries in the mouth….not your regular, bland, focus group merlot, but one with distinct, and very appealing, personality.